Articles
Real Estate In Thailand: A 12 Day Overland Exploration Of Issan, NE Thailand
By Jim Styers
November 2006 
The trip was dual purpose.  Spend some time in the relatively “un-traveled” NE region of Thailand and secondly, rule it out as a place to semi-retire.  I say “rule it out” as I click off cities and areas for long term residency.  Traveling a week after a Military Coup, coupled with flooding in the Northern regions and having little knowledge of this area would add to the adventure.

I first came to Thailand on a consulting job back in 1989. Fell in love with the country and vacationed here many times over the next 10 years.  In 1999, one month before all the computers in the world were supposed to shut down, I moved here on a full time basis.  I’ve lived or vacationed in most of the usual spots; Phuket, Koh Samui, Pattaya, Hua Hin, and of course Bangkok.  These are great places for a vacation, long weekend or a “meet and greet” adventure.  However, for someone contemplating semi-retirement, these areas leave a lot to be desired.  Mostly they have too many tourists!  Great for the economy, tourist related activities, bars and the girls, but not what I have in mind for a reasonable, unstressed and generally laid back life style. 

For the past 5 years we have lived in Ranong, a 4 hour drive north of Phuket on the Myanmar border.  My love of the sea and marine mammals brought me here, running a small dolphin research facility just across the border. A lovely little town Ranong, but with no serious infrastructure nor airline service.  Phuket Air went out of business over a year ago and left Ranong stranded.  A 3 hour drive to the nearest airport in Surat Thani is really stretching my patience. Being the rainiest province in Thailand is also depressing during the Monsoon season.

We now find ourselves looking for a high standard, cost effective and friendly area with an infrastructure that offers us an easy and stress free life.  Hard to find, in my opinion, in the well established tourist areas.  I admit, for the more active, socially adventurous, bar enthusiast and single men, the known tourist areas would be more suitable.  This “newbe” romance seems to wear off after a year or two and many find themselves looking to relocate. 

I, like most “tourists”, had been under the misconception that Thailand is only good for the beaches, bars and girls.  I had read for years in the Lonely Planet about the NE, but never considered it until I met my wife, who is from Sakon Nakhon a small city about a two hour drive east of Udon Thani, and seriously Northeast of Bangkok.  Having made two previous trips by air to visit her family, I have become a convert.  Not that I would make the “rookie” mistake of moving to my wife’s family village, but the general area would be a reasonable compromise.  The old saying in mind, “When Mom’s happy, everyone’s happy” I could see the advantage of this concept. 

Having done my homework with a few road maps, discussions with friends and upgrading the truck with new tires, an oil change and new CD player, I was set.  The wife and I set out to explore the potential of moving to the NE or at the very least, rule it out.

A note about Thailand highways:  They are better than you’d expect and comparable to many western highways.  Even the signs have some English, but typically Thai style, placed in odd spots and distances from exits or turns.  If you are contemplating driving thru Thailand without a Thai speaking person with you, who can read a map, you may want to consider hiring a car in Bangkok with GPS.  Even we did a couple loops around the outskirts of Bangkok before we were heading in the right direction.  If you’re starting from downtown Bangkok, here’s a good tip:  Hire a taxi to show the way out of town.  Follow him to the nearest highway so he can point you in the right direction.  It will be the best 200 baht you’ll ever spend!

The first day of driving started at an easy 10:00 a.m. and took us up familiar highways along the border of Myanmar, often driven on our many Bangkok trips. The turn off which takes you directly across the narrowest part of Thailand to the Gulf Coast, is a beautiful drive. 

We would follow this thru the cities of Chumporn, Phetchburi, Hui Hin, Cha am, and into Ratchburi home of  the famous “floating market.”  The morning of our second day was spent taking a boat tour of the canals and viewing the many boats selling the basic tourist gifts, fruit, baked goods and candy.  By noon we had stocked up and headed north. 

Due to flooding in the northern areas of Nakorn Sawan we changed our plans a bit and headed in a more northeasterly route.  This turned out to be a very good idea as the north got hit pretty hard with lots of flooding.  Although we experienced some rain during our trip, we were able in most cases to avoid it by watching the very good coverage on Thai television each evening.

Although I had heard from friends that Nakhon Ratchasima, commonly known as Korat, was a great city and worthy of a look, we decided to pass it up and get further up to the NE where we had more of a serious interest in the real estate possibilities.  We bypassed Korat and Sara Buri on Highway #2 and spent the second night in Pak Chong, just on the outskirts of Khao Yai National Park.  This was a beautiful spot and recommended for a couple days of exploration.  However, we were on a mission and pressed on the following morning.
Our first destination for possible consideration was Khon Kaen.  It’s considered the gateway to Issan.  On first impression driving in from the South on Highway #2, you are immediately impressed with the wide 8 lane highway thru the middle of town.  Khon Kaen is very well laid out in a “grid” pattern with streets easily negotiated and directions from locals easy to follow. Our first night was spent in a standard downtown 3 star hotel for 700 baht per night.  This included breakfast.  (For reference at the time of this writing, the baht exchange rate is approximately 37.5 baht to the US dollar or about $18.50 per night.)  The second night we moved over to a smaller hotel right on Kaen Nakorn Lake.  Surrounded by a jogging path, fishing areas, restaurants, many trees and well kept landscaping, we made this our base of operations.  At only 450 baht per night, without breakfast, we happily stocked our refrigerator with yogurt, fruit and snacks.  We always travel with a hot water maker, so coffee and tea in morning were standard fare.

OK, Khon Kaen for possible long term retirement?  Absolutely!  The city boasts several international hospitals including Thailand’s NE Heart Hospital and several Universities that are rated very high with Thai Nationals. The province is considered the origin of the Issan civilization dating back over 2,500 years.  Streets seem to be cleaner than in most other Thai cites I’ve visited.  Two large malls offer shopping for the Saturday outings, and the superstores such as Tesco/Lotus, Makro and Big C are all here.  Bowling alleys, movie theaters and parks offer many distractions.

 
Attractions:  In Ban Khok Sa-nga, about 59 km. from town is the famous snake show.  Just 50 km puts you in Amphoe Uboiratana, the largest multi purpose dam offering recreational opportunities for visitors such as an 18 hole golf course, botanical garden and Dinosaur Park.  Thai Silk Exhibition Hall situated in Amphoe Chonnabok, some 60km from town displays the most expensive Mat Mi silk, traditional tie-dyed silk and several ancient silk patterns.  Over 4,000 Chang Kra orchids, rare natural orchids, can be found in the area of Wat Pa Mancha Khiri.  Phu Wiang National Park is located some 85km from town.  The remains of dinosaurs were first discovered here.

Now to the real estate:  We found several new and not so new “villages”.  The newest is Piman Chol 2, only a stones throw from the Lake.  (Visit www.khonkaenhomes.com)

This turned out to be our preferred village, offering the newest homes, largest lots and clubhouse with swimming pool, weight room, sauna, etc.  There are also tennis courts and small lakes within the village for ‘green’ areas.  I found the homes to be of typical “tract” style, offering several models to choose from with prices starting about 1.6 million baht (42,600 dollars) for a nice 3 bedroom, 2 bath with small fenced yard.  4 million baht will purchase a 4 bedroom, 4 bath, large fenced, two story oversized home.  At a little over 100,000 US dollars your money surely goes a long way. 

 
There are MANY villages throughout Khon Kaen and we personally counted over 17, plus a newly constructed high rise condominium overlooking Nakorn Lake. These go for 2.6 to 3.5 million baht.  Nice, but not our style.  Fairly small rooms, but great for the views and overall convenience and nicely furnished.  Overall, we give Khon Kaen an 8.5 (out of 10) compared to the other areas we’ve visited in Thailand.  We found the locals typical of NE people; very nice, helpful and friendly.  There are many western style restaurants and a growing population of Expats finding this great city.

About 120 kilometers north on a very good highway, is the next big city of Udon Thani.  Having just won the right to expand its airport to International status, gives this City a slight edge for anyone needing international travel.  Although Khon Kaen has a good domestic airport and you can get to Bangkok quite easily, having an International Airport is appealing.  The ring road around Udon was created years ago by the American Military while still involved in the Viet Nam War. The airport was one of the largest in SE Asia during this era and remains today a staging airport for many countries training flights. 

Attractions:  This province is renowned for being the location of Ban Chiang World Heritage Site.  Phu Phrabat Historical Park offers a unique and beautiful landscape.  There are also caves and cliffs with traces of prehistoric paintings.  Ban Chiang National Museum is the region’s most important historical site designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Udon Sunshine Orchid Garden grows the new Thai orchid species “Udorn Sunshine”.  It is the first scented orchid in the world to be used in perfume making.

The ring road is very helpful in getting around this City once you figure it out.  Lots of construction going on at this time, adding to the confusion, but letting you know that Udon Thani is growing.  Many Expats are currently living here with several restaurants, bars and other western owned businesses established and thriving. 

The real estate:  Our first stop was to our friend Preben, owner of FBI Udon Real Estate.  (No, he’s not a spook.   FBI stands for “First & Best In” Udon Thani.)  His website is www.udonrealstate.com.  Preben specializes in the resale market and has many properties, land and businesses for sale.  He’s been in Udon for 5 years now and runs a very professional office.  As in Khon Kaen there are many newer “villages” being established.  Once again, prices are similar to Khon Kaen.  One village that we really like was Baan Chonrada.  Offering 77 units over 25 rai of property including a clubhouse with a very large swimming pool.  They currently offer 3 house types and will work with you to “customize” your home if purchased prior to construction.  Model homes are available to view.  Not much English spoken so bring someone to translate.  Homes run in the 3 to 5 million baht range. (Approx. 75,000 to 125,000 US dollars) Their website is www.baanchonrada.com

Overall, we like Udon Thani and give it a solid “8” on our scale.  Khon Kaen edged it out slightly due its overall appearance, layout and amenities.

Fifty six kilometers north on a very good highway is Nong Khai.  Our drive took 45 minutes only because I was driving slow to take in the scenery.  It could be made in 30 minutes, easy.  This is a very important qualification on my rating scale for Nong Khai.

Nong Khai is probably the fastest growing area for Expats to retire.  Located directly on the Mekong River, across from Lao PDR (Laos), I would consider this a “town” not a City.  Only 24km from Vientiane the Capitol of Lao PDR for exploration, French food and a laid back atmosphere. 

Attractions:  Wat Pho Chai is renowned for enshrining the province’s most sacred Buddha image, Luang Pho Phra Sai.  Phu Wua Wildlife Reserve features dry and lush to evergreen forest, and is known for its several beautiful waterfalls.  The Sadat Market occupying an area on the bank of the Mekong River is a bustling market in the center of town featuring Indochinese and Eastern European products.  The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge spans the Mekong River from Nong Khai to the Duea City of Lao PDR.

This medium sized “town” has several advantages from our perspective.  It has the small town feel with none of the busy streets we’d endured in Udon and Khon Kaen.  Many western businessmen are setting up restaurants, bars and other enterprises.  It also boasts a large Tesco/Lotus supermarket which offers the highest of standards and products found in Thailand.  It is comparable to most supermarkets we are accustomed to in the States.  AND it’s only a 30 to 40 minute drive on a good highway to Udon Thani, for big city shopping and entertainment, as well as the International Airport.

The real estate:  FBI in Udon handles this area also and has many properties, both land and homes, for sale. (See Preben’s website above) On our second day we discovered a small housing development just on the outskirts of town.  Patchahouse 2 is the second development a local Thai family is building in Nong Khai.  The real pleasure was talking to Jay, the son in charge of this project.  Educated in the United States, he speaks perfect English and understands details from a “western perspective.”  The homes reflect this training and style.  Starting at only 1.6 million baht, these by far, offer the best value for the dollar.  Jay will also work with you on any custom designs, even putting your design on one of his lots.  You must of course meet certain criteria, but for the most part can build your dream home.  His big 3 bedroom 3 bathroom with huge living room and decent sized lot go for about 2.4 million baht.  Customize with a western kitchen, maids room double sized lot and swimming pool and you can have this dream home for under 4 million baht. Jay’s website is www.patchahouse.com 

Why Thailand? A Guide for an Outrageous Vacation  

We give Nong Khai our number one rating of a solid 9.0!

On our return trip we stopped off at the wife’s home town of Sakon Nakhon for a two day visit with her Mother, sisters and brothers.  A nice City and worth a mention or look if your wife’s family lives somewhere else!  Sakon Nakhon has the infrastructure needed for a very comfortable lifestyle.  Cheap housing, Tesco/Lotus, Big C, Makro and even a new Home Pro to supply your wildest shopping urges.  Prices here are comparable to slightly less than  Nong Khai and Udon Thani. A small airport with an average of one flight daily to Bangkok.

We also stopped off again in Khon Kaen to take a second look at prospective villages.  Bad idea as we are now split on Khon Kaen vs. Nong Khai.  The wife liking the bigger City living of Khon Kaen and me liking the smaller town feel of Nong Khai.  The “negotiations” continue! 

To help in judging a self drive vacation for prospective real estate exploration, I kept a journal and record of our expenses.  The total trip of 12 days and 11 nights, including gas, lodging, food and even the “tip” I had to pay to the highway patrol for driving too long in the right hand lane, came to just under 25,000 baht. (665 US dollars).  Fuel was about 40% of this amount and our average hotel was 709 baht per night. (18.90 US dollars)  We ate good meals and didn’t skip on quality or quantity.  Of course I own our truck, so you might need to figure in a rental car.  In Bangkok you can get a nice Toyota or Honda 4 door sedan for approximately 30 to 40 dollars per day, unlimited miles, including insurance.  Offset the better gas mileage than my truck (about 14 miles per gallon) and the trip still remains a very reasonable adventure.

There are many websites and much has already been written on how to buy or lease real estate in Thailand.  Foreign buyers can not own the land, however there are many ways to secure a property.  Consulting a good and respected lawyer is the only way you will be secure in your purchase, just as you would do in your home country.  Don’t make the mistake many Expats do and rely on a “friend of a cousin who knows a guy” to do your legal work.  Spend the money and get it done right!  You can then sleep at night.  The beauty of Thailand is that anything is possible.  If you chose to purchase (long term lease; marry a Thai or set up a corporation) and build your own home there are many companies to help.  One website to view is: www.coolthaihouse.com

The Military Coup in Thailand seems to be a “non event.”  On Sept. 19th, 2006 the Military staged a bloodless Coup and took control of the Government.  The King and 94% of Thai people supported the Coup.  The previous Prime Minister had some questionable ethics that finally brought him down.  As residents, we have experienced no changes whatsoever.  Traveling during this time was not difficult and little evidence of any change.  We expect this to strengthen Thailand and make it even more appealing.  Thailand continues to be the “land of smiles” and the place I now choose to call home.

Conclusion:  We were NOT able to rule out the NE area of Thailand, favoring it to anything else we’ve seen.  We have a few more areas to explore and will keep you posted.  However, I have a good feeling we’ll be migrating north very soon! 

Jim Styers, 57, has been living in Thailand for 7 years.  His Thai wife, Lada, is 38 and they have a 7 year old daughter.  Jim has been in the Aquarium/Zoo business for most of his adult life, training Killer Whales, dolphins, sea lions, sea otter and other marine mammals.  He was in charge of rescuing animals for the Exxon Valdez oil spill in Alaska in 1989 and designed, built and deployed the Sea Pen for Free Willy/Keiko the killer whale in Iceland.  He now studies dolphin populations and species identification in the waters of Thailand and Myanmar.  Travel writing is his new love and he looks forward to many more articles and adventures.

You can contact the author Jim Styers by e-mail address:  info@whyretireinthailand.com

At Home in Thailand

Editors Note:  This article was written in 2002. Some of the information may be dated.

Chiang Mai: Views from the Elephant’s Eye

If you imagine Thailand to be an elephant’s head in profile, the southern peninsula being the trunk,” someone once told me, “then Chiang Mai is right where the eye would be.” And within that eye dwells much wisdom and cultural appeal. Since 1296, Chiang Mai has built over 300 temples as well as some of the country’s best universities. Modernization has not diminished the charm of this metropolis of 160,000 people.

Enticed by Chiang Mai’s seemingly inexhaustible work and leisure opportunities, tourists often become either permanent residents or repeat visitors. You find them watching French films at the Alliance Francais, weaving through traffic on motorbikes, huddling around pitchers of beer during The Irish Pub’s weekly “Quiz Night,” or bartering for a kilo of tomatoes at a local market. They are teachers, volunteers, students, missionaries, business owners, and retirees. Regardless of their occupations or nationalities, all find the slow pace of Chiang Mai living enticing.

Expatriate Profiles

Fifty-two-year-old Margaret Bhadungzong has made this northern Thai city her home since 1973 when she arrived in Bangkok with her Thai husband, Goson, whom she met while at college in Ohio. After living in Bangkok for five years with their child, “Bangkok got to be too frenetic and hectic” and they decided to move to Chiang Mai to start a now-flourishing tourist magazine, Good Morning Chiang Mai. Looking ahead, she feels that retirement in Chiang Mai will mean a “very happy life.”

Don Wilcox arrived in Thailand 19 years ago and found that Chiang Mai reminded him of his home in North Carolina: “I love the city. It feels very much like Appalachia.” Shortly after his arrival, Don married a Thai woman crippled with polio and the two have since started Chiang Mai’s first and only disabled center. (“We’re not a popular cause,” he says, “we’re a lost cause.” “We’re people that no one wants to see.”)

Today the Center—which provides Internet, bike rental, and massage services—works with many foreigners who come to volunteer (see below).

Wilcox advises potential visitors: “Leave personal baggage at home. Leave cultural assumptions behind you and become vulnerable to another perspective. Don’t ask, ‘Can I drink this water? Are there chilies in this rice?’ Dive in. Exercise reasonable caution. Get over ‘us and them.’”

Eight years ago, 47-year-old Julia Jus, then a single mother, followed her inner voice to Chiang Mai. Since then she has raised her two children, remarried, and started Cynergy, an enterprise which includes homeopathic consultations and a 7-day “rejuvenation” retreat. Although her business has been a success, attracting clients ranging from Indian royalty to Hollywood stars, running a business outside of her native culture has been a challenge. Thais, she finds, generally operate according to a very different work ethic than that to which she is accustomed: the “Mai Pen Rai” attitude (a ubiquitous Thai phrase meaning “never mind”) is not always conducive to serving Western clients efficiently.

Despite the low costs of living in Chiang Mai, Jus, who feels “this is a great place to raise kids,” made sure that she had adequate savings before moving her family here and beginning her business. “If you don’t have any income,” she warns potential newcomers, “coming here and looking for a way to support yourself is very difficult.”

Karin Madison moved to Chiang Mai from Cleveland two years ago with her husband, Brent, a photographer, after she had worked in Japan as an ESL teacher. Karin explains: “It’s way cheaper to get started here. We traced the trend, the next hotspot for travel and photojournalism.”

Extensive Internet research, networking with family friends, and some savings made their transition a successful one.

If you’re single and you know what kind of job you want, it’s not difficult to move to Chiang Mai,” Karin advises. “You need to be resourceful and proactive. Check out, especially on the Internet, various resources on the place where you want to move.”

Americans not only come to Chiang Mai to teach or to start their own businesses. They also decide to study at one of the universities, volunteer at NGOs, or even retire here. Mark Isenstadt, a 32-year-old former social worker from Colorado Springs, moved to Chiang Mai in August 2000 to pursue a course in parisitology at Chiang Mai Univ. Like Karin, Mark’s relocation preparations began with Internet research.

Although the cost of education is much lower here than in the U.S., and both his studies and the country help to “spark his interest,” he, too, feels frustrated with Thailand’s “Mai Pen Rai” outlook. “You have to adjust yourself to a different pace here,” Mark explains. Nevertheless, the good outweighs the bad. He now pm.lans on pursuing a Masters in International Health at CMU and has fallen in love with a Thai woman. Mark also volunteers once or twice a week at Rejoice Urban Development Project (RUDP), a local NGO AIDS charity which provides medical, monetary, and emotional support to HIV victims and their families.

David Spillane, a 62-year-old retiree from New Haven, Connecticut, first visited Thailand in 1965 on a break from his service in Vietnam. He has worked at the U.S. Embassy in Bangkok, at the American Consulate in Chiang Mai, and he has married a Thai women, with whom he now lives in Chiang Mai at the foot of Doi Suthep.

“The City has changed markedly since then,” he explains. “Twenty-five years ago it was really a sleepy little city.” And although pollution and traffic have accompanied recent growth, David is not alone in that he has chosen to enjoy his retirement in Chiang Mai for its temperate climate and “reasonably slow” tempo. He finds that in America “everyone seems wired, but here it doesn’t have quite the tension levels.”

Westerners who crave efficiency and excitement “may find Chiang Mai slightly disappointing,” he says. But such environs support his interest in Buddhist studies; he frequently walks over to the nearby Wat Umong for the Sunday “Dhamma talks,” given by an English monk.

“Buddhism permeates the culture in so many ways,” Dave says, “I realized what a major influence it is on the whole Thai culture and how they perceive things and how they interact . . . from the King on down.”

Whether you’re thinking of a journey into the eye of Thailand’s elephant to start a business, teach, study, or just “be,” the first thing to do is to come see it for yourself.

Moving to Chiang Mai

Thai Embassy: 1024 Wisconsin Ave., NW, Washington, D.C. 200007; 202-944-3600.

Visas: American tourists can receive a 30-day tourist visa upon arrival, which can be extended for 10 days (at a fee of 500 Baht) at an immigration office in Thailand. You can also leave the country and return immediately to obtain another 30-day stay (many take a day trip from Chiang Mai to Mae Sai at the Burmese border or send their visas to be stamped in Laos). A non-immigrant visa is the best option for those intending to stay for longer than six months. It is good for 90 days, costs about $20, and requires an explanation of why you are visiting (business, study, and retirement are considered valid reasons). You must apply for this from your home country.

Editors note:  This info has changed a bit since Sept. 2007.  Please check our section under

Visa Requirements.

Work Permits: Your employer can help to arrange this for you after your arrival.

Immunizations and Medication: Healthcare in Thailand is generally affordable and efficient; therefore, it may be best to get immunizations in Chiang Mai or Bangkok.

Chiang Mai Resources: Helpful Hints for Getting Settled in Chiang Mai, available at the Raintree Resource Center www.wisdomlight.org has a listing of courses and centers for health, art, and, spirituality throughout Thailand. Welcome to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Contact Margaret Bhadungzong; 260-705; 247-083; margaret@loxinfo.co.th, www.chiangmai-chiangrai.com; The Chiang Mai Newsletter, newsletter@chiangmainews.com, www.chiangmainews.com; 1-3 Chom Doi Road; 225-201; 357-428. A monthly newsletter catering for expatriates and a good place to scan the classified ads.

Accommodations: Chiang Mai Habitat is a reliable realtor who speaks English well and is used to working with foreigners in finding houses, condos, or apartments to rent. 2/5 Sukkasem Rd. (Soi Condo 103 Project 3), Chiang Mai. Contact: Mr. Theera, Tel. 217-769, fax 215-606.

The Smile House, a new, pleasantly decorated guesthouse in the heart of the city, has rooms ranging from 200 Baht to 400 Baht (with bath and AC); bicycle and motorbikes rentals are available: 5 Ratchaamaka Rd., Soi 2, Chiang Mai; Tel. 208-661-3, fax 208-663; smile208@loxinfo.co.th.

The Disabled Center: Foundation to Encourage the Potential of Disabled Persons, www.infothai.com/disabled. Chiang Mai's only center to empower disabled citizens offers Internet services and bike rentals. It can arrange work permits and accommodations in exchange for volunteer services. Contact: Don Wilcox, 133/1 Rajapakinai; Tel. 213-941; assist@loxinfo.co.th.

Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, one to five courses, every day from 10 a.m.-4 p.m. 1-3 Moon Muang Rd.; Tel. 206-388, 208-287, fax 206-387.

The Yoga Center, 65/1 Arak Rd.; Tel. 277-850, 814-206; yogacntre@chmai.loxinfo.co.th, www.infothai.com/yogacenter. Ten-day beginner and 5-day intermediate Iyengar yoga courses each month.

Loi Kroh Massage Salon and School, 63/3 Loikroh Rd.; Tel. 274-681. Contact: Tassanee Boonsom (Cookie). Rejuvenating massages as well as 10- to 20-hour massage courses.

Search Associates. Contact: Harry and Margaret Deelman, Tel. 244-322; deelman@loxinfo.co.th. Placement agency for work at secondary international schools (teaching certificate or two years' experience necessary).

Important Contacts: American University Alumni (AUA), 24 Th Ratchadamnoen; Tel. 278407, 211377. Thai language courses, community information, and library. American Consulate, 387 Th Wichayanon; 011-66-53-252-629/31, fax 252633. Raintree Resource Center, 3 Th Charoen Muang; Tel. 262-660.This should be one of your first stops as a newcomer.

SARA AVANT STOVER teaches English literature and dance in Chiang Mai.

 

Mortgages the hurdle for foreigners

 


By Nina Suebsukcharoen


There is greater demand for Thai property from foreigners who are buying for a variety of reasons but also spurring the market is a sharp increase in the number of people deciding to retire here, according to James Pitchon, executive director of CB Richard Ellis.

To tap this potential, banks need to start evaluating foreigners, not as a credit risk but as an investment opportunity, adds Dawn Kitt, a barrister with the Bangkok law firm Kitt & Murray.

"Domestic banks are not inclined to give mortgages to foreigners unless they have a fabulous contract or a Thai guarantor," she said.

Several of the people retiring in Thailand have worked in Asia for many years and Thailand is probably the most attractive country to choose to retire in.

"Part of that is a reflection of the living cost in Europe, the States and Australia, and part of that is because for someone who has spent 20-25 years overseas, Asia is as much their home as their original birthplace," Mr Pitchon said.

The Immigration Department offers retirement visas for foreigners over 50 years old. However, the retiree has to maintain a bank balance of 800,000 baht and ensure a monthly income of 65,000 baht. The retirement visa prohibits employment but allows you to live in Thailand.

"This is the largest growth market _ people choosing to retire here. Some people choose Thailand as a regional base to keep their people working all around Asia. Some keep their families here because we have good schools, good health care and Thailand is seen as a friendly country," Mr Pitchon said.

A lot of the people choosing to retire in Thailand are higher-income individuals _ they have to be to meet the visa criteria _ with many being very successful regional executives. Also, many Europeans who previously retired in Spain or Portugal to escape the cold and dreary winters of northern Europe are finding that the cost of living in these two countries has increased significantly and are seeing Thailand as an alternative retirement destination because a lot of infrastructure such as health care, supermarkets and English-language TV, is more developed.

However, while demand has increased, there are still restrictions on ownership of property in Thailand with foreigners essentially not allowed to buy land. That leaves condominiums, in which foreigners are allowed to own up to 49% of the total saleable area of a building, he said.

Ms Kitt notes that any foreigner wanting to buy property in Thailand must fund it with money from abroad. The money they bring in has to be foreign currency sent from a bank account in their own name abroad to one here. There is one exception, and that is to send the money to a law firm's client account but Ms Kitt recommends transferring it to one's own bank account.

To buy property, the foreigner has to obtain a foreign exchange transaction (FET) form from the bank. This form will only be issued for any remittance exceeding US$20,000. For sums less than that an official letter is issued.

"This is more to do with money laundering because banks need to know why it's coming to Thailand," she said.

These forms have to be presented to the Land Department as part of the legal requirement to take the transfer of a condominium. Other documents required include a passport, power of attorney form if a lawyer has been appointed to help handle the transfer and, ideally, a copy of the sales contract.

The main hurdle is the requirement to remit money from abroad. "Very few clients have US$100,000 tucked away in a bank account in the US or UK," she said.

Mortgage lending by local banks to foreigners is virtually unheard of in Thailand. However, Ms Kitt said terms might be easing, noting that two of her firm's clients had succeeded in obtaining mortgages. It probably helped that both had been in Thailand for a long time, had work permits and were employed.

If a foreigner is married to a Thai it can be easier to get a mortgage as the Thai spouse could obtain the loan with the foreigner standing as guarantor.

Ms Kitt pointed out another option that will appeal to Britons. Cuttes Bank, which is owned by the Royal Bank of Scotland, offers an equity release mortgage scheme for Asian properties. This means it will lend money secured by property the client owns in England to fund a property acquisition in Asia.

Still, local regulations are a massive hurdle for foreign developers in Thailand who buy a small piece of land in Samui or Phuket to undertake a small or medium-sized development, because they find it very difficult to raise any kind of financing, Ms Kitt said.

Her law firm has a client who bought 64 rai of prime land on Ko Samui and offered half as collateral for a five-million-baht loan but the bank declined.

"The problem was that the company he set up to buy the land, because foreigners cannot themselves buy land, was very new," Ms Kitt explained.

"Immediately after he set it up, he went and bought this piece of land. He obviously now needs some money to do the construction, but the bank said no; they did not see value in that land. In England, Europe and America you would think, wow, undeveloped land that's right on the beach, but the bank didn't understand that that land has value."

Kitt & Murray also has come across foreign developers who have retired here and thought of launching property projects. They meet a Thai woman and buy the land in her name on being reassured by her that she will transfer the land to a company the foreigner sets up later.

"Then we set up the company and we call her and say, 'You know you will be handing over your land to the company but don't worry. You will be a director of the company, you will have total control. The Thai lady says, 'No, no, no,' and won't sign anything. This has happened many times."

Mr Pitchon agreed that if the Thai government wishes to enlarge the property market, then the simplest thing to do is to allow foreigners to borrow as that would significantly increase demand.

As it stands, foreigners are mostly restricted to buying condominiums and the choice for a prospective purchaser is either to buy an existing completed unit or one that is being sold off plan.

"The difference is that buying a completed condominium is much lower risk because you know what you are getting as the project is built and there is no risk of delay in completion of the project," he said.

The other issue to look at is the ongoing property management of the project. CB Richard Ellis believes that property management is the key to the owner's long-term enjoyment of the property and is also a major factor in its long-term value.

 

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